by Robecca Leyden
In celebration of Fashion Inc.'s 2022 Fashion Show & Met Gala, Sans Pareil are rolling out some exclusive interviews with the five featured designers (which we are SO excited to be doing). As one of the two headlining designers - we thought the incredibly talented Jacqueline Roper of Jacqueline-Anne was a great interview to start with.
Jacqueline is an extremely interesting women, with a background that includes playing halfback at high school and then for a club (yes, the Rugby kind) she also studied fashion design, lived in Japan for eight years and worked as menswear designer Nigel Curtiss' personal assistant, in Paris!
Firstly, tell us a little about your label and what you do.
My Label was launched in 2019, as a bespoke Atelier, of one of a Kind Couture fashions, with so much love of the clothing we decided to launch into the ready to wear market with our couture, (with some additional one of kind pieces available for purchase as well). With our flagship Boutique Salon opening in October this year. So we are very busy with Production right now.
Love your zero waste ethos! Is it difficult being sustainable in the fashion industry in NZ? How do you think we measure up to the rest of the world?
I really think we need to apply within our design process to be a "circle model business", we owe it to the planet, I am tired of fake green washing brands. Recycled polyester is still polyester, it does not biodegrade and putting in into fabric is not a great help to the planet as it ends it's cycle and it is still a major pollutant. We can do more we have the knowledge too so why don't we try harder?
You are a direct descendant of Chief Te Mahutu and Te Waikaungarangi of the Te Āti Awa Iwi, from Pukerangiora Pa, in Taranaki. Does your heritage influence your designs or any part of your process? Taranaki is so beautiful, do any specifics to this area influence you?
I do add elements of weaving Raranga or Taniko into my work, more will be coming in the future as I work towards some new collections for next year's fashion week. Learning to weave reminds me of my grandmother but also bringing me closer to my Māori heritage that I feel was stolen from us as kids. It still hurts to think my Nana was told to stay out of the sun and act more 'white', this mindset horrifies me and the fact the real history of New Zealand is still not taught in New Zealand, Which stems now to how so many people want to make divisions between groups, instead of respecting history and culture.
You have an incredibly diverse and international resume! How do you compare working in Tokyo, Paris and Los Angeles to NZ?
Ha ha ha yes true, New Zealand is small, with a lot of talented creative people, the only problem I have is the same few designers or artists are always mentioned or referred to in the media...when there are so many more out there to share and be inspired by that could do with some exposure.
Tokyo was an amazing place to live and work as a fashion designer there were no boundaries to creativity and design was off the charts. Paris was wonderful for working in Fashion I really felt like I had made it LOL, especially working the Pret a Porter collections and been the Personal Assistant to a top menswear designer, at only 25 years old. Los Angles is a different beast again, I miss the great weather every day and my good friends, fashion is very different to Tokyo and Paris, less is more is the rule of thumb there, but learning to market your brand is what the Americans do so well. I feel very lucky to have been brave enough when I was young to take the risk and travel and find work, so many wonderful opportunities that I am so grateful to have experienced first hand.
Who are some of your fashion inspirations? What designers do you love?
I love vintage Haute Couture, The fashions of impeccable creations from Madeleine Vionnet, to the wit of Elsa Schiaparelli, the class of Channel, and the silhouettes of Christian Dior, even the creativity of Cristóbal Balenciaga, modern brands that inspire me now are Lebanese fashion designers Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab, and of course I love the work of Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Lastly, do you have any advice for emerging designers in your field?
I wish I had started my own brand earlier, but on the other hand learning from within global brands can only help your process when you finally do decide to start down this path. Design the things you love, and then it is pleasure not work.
You can find and purchase Jacqueline-Anne on her website.
