By Delilah Gow

Model, artist and all-round creative Delilah Gow takes Sans Pareil backstage, front row and everywhere in between at Tāmaki Makaurau’s favourite indie Fashion week: Te Wiki Āhua O Aotearoa.

PRECIOUS by SHERBET LEMON

Welcome to the dollhouse. Laylah Hannaford’s Precious invited us into her whimsical world, where she opened up a life-sized dollhouse for all eyes. 

Time for the dolls to play. From the runway, I felt the surreal tension of being both covered and uncovered, as well as a nostalgic taste of playing dress up as a girl. Lace and bright bows concealed and revealed lingerie pieces, contrasting the harsh, exaggerated drag-like doll-faced makeup. Creepy dolls surrounded us as we posed, turning girlhood play into a haunting spectacle. Inside and out, Precious was as much about questioning who gets to look and define femininity as it was about reveling in self-expression; power and vulnerability stitched into satin.

GRIT & BARE IT by ZOE LANGLEY, RUOHAN ZHAO, RYAN SHEPHERD, & MAXWELL RYAN

Grit & Bare It brought a hard-line edge to the runway at Āhua. Raw streetwear energy fused with imaginative reworkings of staple pieces. Muted rockstar palettes and sharp tailoring were given a grungy, lived-in finish, with standout looks like a hybrid dress – appearing to be made from a pair of trousers, topped off with a scarf… no a coat… no a scarf? The designers kept the audience on its toes, blurring the boundaries of function and form while still grounded in thoughtful construction. This collection demanded attention, reminding us that strength lies not in blending in, but in holding your ground with style, unapologetic presence, and pure GRIT.

Vivienne Tam.

KAITIAKI by JUNESCRY

Junescry is definitely a designer to be watched! Māori roots + a futuristic vision = a new and  incredibly unique series of pieces that felt both ancestral and post-apocalyptic. Earth-derived textures dominated the runway. From woven fibres to shredded flax, to items that seemed to be dripping and oozing, each garment carried the marks of endurance and harmony. My personal favourite was a breathtaking piece crafted from paua shell, its iridescent surface catching the light like armour. The intensity of the show never faltered; each look demanded attention, weaving a web of whakapapa and futurism into live artworks that felt kinetic, resistant, yet adaptable.