Coming of age in Auckland in the mid noughties I was OBSESSED with getting my hands on a silk Miss Crabb dress. It was the epitome of cool girl luxury. Fun story - because I was a poor Uni student, I actually borrowed my best friend's gorgeous Miss Crabb dress and wore it to graduation. So it was a pretty cool, full circle to interview someone I had been fangirling over for years.
Baby Robecca. Please ignore the cringe student flat, and mop of white hair, I clearly cut myself.
SP: Hi Kristine, it is such a pleasure to be speaking with you. I’ve been a fan of your designs for many years!
K: Hello Robecca! So cool to discover your cool channel, thank you for this! And thanks so much hehe.
SP: First off, what is Gloria and how does it differ from Miss Crabb?
K: Gloria is a platform for my creative projects and ideas. Its multidisciplinary in that I can do anything under this project, its my creative outlet as an artist. Gloria is me, all my own work; I am Miss Crabb too, still, but Gloria has more patience, it's creatively true and more suited to my life as an artist and mother (kinda).
Our first project that we launched was our divine fragrance – GLORIA parfum. Made by Aotearoa perfumer CURIONOIR. The idea came from child hood memories of my Grandmother Gloria’s fragrant and magical garden. I also wanted it to smell like... well, me.
Tiffany Witehira of CURIONOIR is a creative genius and I do believe that GLORIA may be her magnum opus .. such a special toanga from her, a dear friend.
SP: You seem to be keeping Gloria quite lowkey, according to hours and shop location. What’s behind this slower paced approach?
K: I want Gloria to have an element of discovery for people, much like the time before the internet. It suits the nature of the work too – while the work and pieces themselves are universal in many ways; a state of mind, its really only for those who are curious and want to find something new and have an affinity. I want people to see Gloria with fresh eyes; even though people do refer to it as formerly Miss Crabb hehe I want Gloria to be a strong name and unique style in its own right. It an homage to my Grandmother Gloria and I think its suits her outlook on life too.
SP: You’re known for incredibly flattering, draping high quality fabrics. In the mid 00’s Miss Crabb was THE place to get a wow-factor dress. I can see some of this design style coming through with Gloria. How do you describe your design style?
Nirvana Dress ~ Crimson.
K: I do reference my 20 year strong archive quite a bit as it means a lot me. The pieces were imagined over the years, to have a sense of timelessness, an heirloom quality and its nice to see that in fact this has remained true as only time will tell.
My style? Its very fluid, quite bold and minimalist and glamourous, but in an earthy beauty type of way and a dedication to quality and ethical construction. These are clothes for having babies, nursing, floating around the house, parties, the beach, da club and also going to work. So they are pretty hardworking styles, versatile. Not only for your changing body but as women especially, for our multifaceted lives.
SP: Tell us a bit about your latest capsule collection?
IKONIKA! It just has really great energy. The yellows and orange hues, the lace and organza and black tissue and habotai silks . The pieces themselves are really dynamic and exciting... Kinda glam yet street enough for anything at all.
We've reimagined some archive pieces and created some brand new pieces also so it has a nice cohesion from past to present. We photographed the collection in our new shop space with the talented Fynn Hanson. The "ugly" mirrors creating illusions and dimensional textures and views of the garments.
SP: Obsessed with the oversized scrunchies! What a great and chic way to use all the excess fabric. Will you keep them coming out every season?
K: Yesssss thank you, they have been a fun 'lil addition to the collections. A calling card you could say and our colours and full-volume style lends itself so well; silk is so nice for the hair.
I will make something new I'm sure! I have loved creating smaller accessories and things via Gloria. I quite love small silk sashes/ribbons for the hair and wrists - so romantic.
SP: What can we expect from Gloria and yourself in the near future? Any big plans to take over the world?
Fynn Hanson wearing the Nirvana Dress, standing outside the Gloria shop on Ponsonby Road, Auckland.
K: Yes! In fact I've also been working on so many other things which seem to take such a long to come to fruition. My main creative project is raising my three kids alongside my business projects. For Gloria we are launching a full suiting collection very soon... and of course a kind of intimates/movement collection later in the year.
The suiting is much like my signature style; fluid and relaxed, yet transformative. A style you can work from home or go to the office or the club or gym ~ with impeccable cut and finish in beautiful suiting cloth. Suiting is quite political, always so naturally our suiting pieces are a little subversive.
I also want to do more boys stuff! Or make what I'm doing more fluid, so that everyone can wear it. We've always dressed boys and whoever else! Boys clothes are such a wonderful challenge creatively and technically, and of course look so cool.
SP: You’re entirely NZ made, that’s a very difficult thing to be. How do you manage it?
K: It's really the only way I know how! My machinists, suppliers and factories are the best part of the business. When I had my hiatus I missed them (and my colours) the most hehe. Its really such a nice process. I'm not sure I would want to do it any other way, as I love the handmade nature of the pieces. But I'm also curious for how to do things that we cant do in NZ like lingerie, shoes, and denim for example, even merchandise type things. Would be fun!
SP: Lastly, what style advice do you have for our readers?
K: Do what you want, do what you love! Love your clothes.
Left to right: Kristine Crabb; one of the giant silk scrunchies.
Check out the website Gloria or follow along on the Instagram page.
