Beauty/ 12/03/2023/

Back to Basics – Skincare Routines for Oily Skin

By Clare Jennings.

As discussed last week, a basic skincare routine utilises cleanser, moisturiser and SPF. But there is so much more than can be added to your routine. And today we will be exploring some of those formulations and ingredients that will support an oily and/or oily combination skin type.

Firstly, oily skin is often dehydrated skin. In the bad old days it was thought the best way to deal with oily skin was to dry the heck out of it with heavy alcohol based toners and treatments.

But I’m here to offer a far gentler, and in my opinion, better, way to take care of your oily skin.

I adore and endorse essences and hydrating toners. There are hundreds on the market, and finding the best fit can be confusing. Korean skincare companies produce some incredible offerings, at really affordable prices. I really enjoy toners that contain ginseng, hyaluronic acid and enzymatic ingredients. These are hydrating, and softening and they can help reduce oil production by making your skin recognise its hydrated therefore the oil isn’t required. I like to layer a couple of different versions, preparing the skin to accept the serums and treatments that come next. Hydrated and damp skin absorb skincare much better than dry skin.

Next, serums and treatments.

I would suggest identifying the areas you’d like to work on - dullness, fine lines, oiliness or whatever it may be. These are called ‘active’ ingredients as they actively work with your skin to provide results. Then identify the ingredients that are recommended and find products that fit your budget that include those.

My favourite ingredients for serums for my oily skin are niacinimide, vitamin C and retinal, as well as alpha (glycolic and lactic) and beta hydroxy acids which exfoliate the skin gently rather than using a rough physical scrub. Exfoliation gets rid of dead skin cells, allowing it to look brighter and less dull.

If this is your first foray into serums then I suggest taking a look at products from K Beauty retailers and The Ordinary. They are really effective, budget friendly offerings and a great way to introduce ingredients to your skin. The more luxurious products can come later, once you know what you like.

Use the bulk of your active ingredients at night. A gel moisturiser will be perfect to lock in the goodness of the serums, keeping your skin hydrated during the night.

For a daytime routine, you can follow a similar one to your evening one, however I would stick to the more simple serums - like niacinimide and definitely vitamin c. Vitamin C and sunscreen are best buddies when it comes to daytime skincare, as vitamin C supports sunscreen to fight free radicals which cause sun damage and dark spots. Make sure to apply your moisturiser before your sunscreen. You must use sunscreen once you start using active ingredients as it can make sure skin much more sensitive to the sun.

Lastly, let’s talk about Retinol. Retinol (vitamin A) is the number one, scientifically proven ingredient to help with well aging. And tbh, it’s confusing as anything deciding which one to use.

I will do a full post on Retinoids later, but for brevity’s sake my advice for those starting out with a retinol product is to go for something at a very low strength, and start out by using it once a week. It has a bad habit of stressing skin out if you use it too quickly and too often.

Once your skin gets used to it you can increase it to twice a week, then if you feel like you can handle it, three times a week. Again, The Ordinary has an excellent range of options, and a knowledgeable sales assistant will be able to guide you towards the best one for you.